{"id":137777,"date":"2022-04-15T06:30:05","date_gmt":"2022-04-15T05:30:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.yachtingworld.com\/?p=137777"},"modified":"2022-07-21T18:35:35","modified_gmt":"2022-07-21T17:35:35","slug":"diving-with-sharks-in-french-polynesia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.yachtingworld.com\/bluewater-sailing\/diving-with-sharks-in-french-polynesia-137777","title":{"rendered":"Into the deep: Diving with sharks in French Polynesia"},"content":"As cruisers, we can find ourselves in some of the most beautiful places this world has to offer. But more often than not, the real magic lies just below the surface, in the world of the aquatic. Diving from a boat can be a great way to get a better idea of the world that lies below your keel.\r\n\r\nMy wife, Rachel, previously worked as a research diver and Divemaster. Years ago, as we prepared to go cruising, she made it known that one of her few requirements of going sailing long term was to have her own dive compressor on board. As a result, we\u2019ve made diving a priority during our voyage planning, and have been immensely rewarded with some of the most incredible undersea experiences of our lives.\r\n\r\nToday scuba diving is considered a relatively safe activity due to advancements in gear, safety procedures and, above all, standardised training requirements. But it could be easy to overlook the risks inherent in the sport.\r\n\r\nScuba certifications ensure all participants have the same knowledge and understanding of the sport at a given certification level, and this should be the first step in diving safely from your boat.\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_131392\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"630\"]<img class=\"wp-image-131392 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/21\/2021\/04\/YAW261.special_report.final_edit_3_48-630x394.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"630\" height=\"394\" \/> Be careful how you lift dive gear into the dinghy. Photo: voyagesofagape.com[\/caption]\r\n\r\nBefore setting off on your own, it\u2019s advisable to complete your PADI Open Water course, as well as an Advanced course. Log enough dives that you are comfortable underwater without a Divemaster to ensure you have adequate knowledge of the gear, safe diving practices, and navigating underwater.\r\n\r\nIn theory, you are ready to dive independently of a shop and Divemaster after passing your Open Water (level one course). However, to be truly confident I recommend completing an Advanced course and\/or have a minimum of 15-20 dives. We all learn at different speeds and it is a unique timeline for everyone to gain confidence in the water.\r\n<h2>Diving in<\/h2>\r\nOur tanks live happily secured to the mast pulpit where they are easily accessible while the rest of our gear is stored in a locker in a single large mesh bag. When it\u2019s time to dive, our side deck becomes a mini dive shop as we assemble our gear.\r\n\r\nWe leave our weights out of the BCDs to lighten the load as much as possible when transferring to the dinghy (be careful never to lift from the first stage, use the handle on your BCD or the yoke on the tank instead to ensure you don\u2019t damage the tank\u2019s O-ring).\r\n\r\nMany of the best dive sites have mooring buoys that you can use to tie up the dinghy. If you find a site that doesn\u2019t have a mooring, use a small grapple-style anchor with several feet of chain and some small diameter line to anchor the dinghy. Just be sure to check that your anchor is well set and not damaging live coral.\r\n\r\nOn larger boats, it\u2019s common to don your dive gear on the boat and back-roll off the side, but in a cramped and unstable dinghy this can be difficult. Instead, we\u2019ve fixed a length of shock cord to each of our BCDs with a bronze clip. This five-minute project allows us to partially inflate our gear and roll it into the water where it can float securely attached to the dinghy until we\u2019re ready to get in and begin our dive.\r\n\r\nThe first time we put our BCDs on in the water felt strange and awkward, but we quickly found it to be much easier. At the end of the dive, we reverse the procedure, re-clipping the BCDs to the dinghy and easily climbing in without worrying about our gear floating off.\r\n\r\nDiving without a guide can be challenging, and yet it\u2019s an immensely rewarding activity as a cruiser.\r\n\r\nTo keep it fun and comfortable, we always follow a few simple safety steps before submerging. We always start by checking our equipment on the boat before leaving. After setting up our gear we open our tanks to verify tank pressure and pressurise the system. If an O-ring is going to split, it will usually do so at this point, so better it happens on the boat than at the dive site. We then make sure our regulators and inflator hose are working properly.\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_131390\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"630\"]<img class=\"wp-image-131390 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/21\/2021\/04\/YAW261.special_report.final_edit_3_06-630x394.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"630\" height=\"394\" \/> Diving with reef sharks. Photo: voyagesofagape.com[\/caption]\r\n\r\nAs we get ready in the dinghy, we take an extra minute to set up a dive flag and observe if there is a current. Usually, it is better to start the dive swimming against the current, so your return trip is easier.\r\n\r\nWe also use this time to talk about our dive plan, which direction we will swim, our planned depths, times, and make sure all participants are feeling comfortable. Once in the water, we do a final surface check of our gear \u2013 and our buddy\u2019s gear \u2013 before descending.\r\n\r\nIf a diver is going to have trouble, it is usually during the descent. Whether it\u2019s inadequate weight, trouble equalising, or just being nervous, it\u2019s especially important to pay close attention to your dive buddy during this part of the dive.\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_131389\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"630\"]<img class=\"wp-image-131389 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/21\/2021\/04\/YAW261.special_report.agape_pacific_5k9a7387-630x394.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"630\" height=\"394\" \/> Joshua Shankle and his wife, Rachel, are cruising the world on their 42ft Tayana Ag\u00e1pe. Photo: voyagesofagape.com[\/caption]\r\n\r\nAfter the descent, we make sure to make eye contact again, giving the okay sign, signalling we are ready to continue our dive. Make sure to regularly check-in and verify that everyone is feeling good and has adequate air throughout the dive. Lastly, plan to arrive back at the dinghy with plenty of air. We follow the rule of thirds: 1\/3 outgoing, 1\/3 returning, and 1\/3 to surface.\r\n\r\nThis helps to ensure that we have a good reserve should something happen at any point during our dive. When diving as a couple, this is especially important, as you only have each other\u2019s tank if your gear should ever fail.\r\n\r\nIt\u2019s important to always dive with a buddy and within your limits. Communicate if you are feeling nervous or not comfortable with any part of the dive plan, follow your gut instincts, and don\u2019t push past your comfort level.\r\n<h2>Tanks and air<\/h2>\r\nThere are many makes and models of compressors on the market, including gas, diesel, or electric. We wanted something self-contained, and since our yacht <em>Ag\u00e1pe<\/em> relies entirely on solar for power, an electric model was out of the question.\r\n\r\n<em>Article continues below...<\/em>\r\n\r\n<hr \/>\r\n\r\n[collection]\r\n\r\n<hr \/>\r\n\r\nWe purchased a MaxAir 35, powered by a 6hp petrol engine. This compressor uses a combination of a condensate trap and a disposable filter to purify and dry the air while filling dive tanks, usually within 18-25 minutes depending on tank size and ambient temperature.\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_131394\" align=\"alignright\" width=\"320\"]<img class=\"wp-image-131394 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/21\/2021\/04\/YAW261.special_report.final_edit_3_64-320x400.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"320\" height=\"400\" \/> Aluminium tanks are a popular choice. Photo: voyagesofagape.com[\/caption]\r\n\r\nNot everyone will need their own compressor to go diving from a boat. In fact, unless you are an avid diver I\u2019d recommend against it. These seemingly simple devices are one of the most crucial elements of diving safety: to ensure clean, pure, and dry air they must be well maintained and have the filters changed regularly.\r\n\r\nIn almost every diving hot spot there is a dive shop that will refill tanks for roughly US $10. If there are no dive shops in the area, listen for the sound of another yacht\u2019s compressor running.\r\n\r\nOn <em>Ag\u00e1pe<\/em>, we estimate the cost of filling a dive tank to be $3-4. So, when people come by to ask if we can fill their tanks, we usually ask for $5 to cover consumables and wear and tear on the compressor. Many cruisers with a compressor on board may be willing to do the same if asked.\r\n\r\nFor tanks you have a choice of steel or aluminium. On <em>Ag\u00e1pe<\/em> we carry Aluminium 80s. These are by far the most common for the simple reason that they are cheaper than steel tanks.\r\n\r\nNew aluminium tanks cost around $150, whereas a steel tank is closer to $300. This cost-saving does have a few drawbacks, though. The lifespan of aluminium tanks are usually shorter than steel and they are much more buoyant. With aluminium, you\u2019ll have to wear more weight as the tank becomes more buoyant at the end of the dive, unlike steel tanks that remain negatively buoyant.\r\n\r\nSteel is also stronger and the tanks can be smaller, but aluminium has the advantage of being slightly more corrosion resistant.\r\n<h2>Other gear<\/h2>\r\nAs for the rest of your kit, it depends on how often you intend on diving from a boat and what you personally find comfortable. I have found that streamlined, backfill BCDs (Buoyancy Control Devices) are not only cheaper but smaller and easier to store onboard.\r\n\r\nIf possible, find one with a built-in backup regulator on the inflator hose and integrated weight bags, as this will further streamline your gear.\r\n\r\nOne of the most important pieces of gear is a dependable dive computer or watch. A dive computer will constantly monitor your depth and time to calculate safe diving limits using dive tables. While it is possible to do these calculations on your own, a computer is more reliable.\r\n\r\n[caption id=\"attachment_131391\" align=\"alignnone\" width=\"630\"]<img class=\"wp-image-131391 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/21\/2021\/04\/YAW261.special_report.final_edit_3_43-630x394.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"630\" height=\"394\" \/> Once in the water do a final check with your buddy. Photo: voyagesofagape.com[\/caption]\r\n\r\nRachel and I each dive with computers that tell us all relevant information to ensure we are diving within established dive profiles.\r\n\r\nA good quality BCD, first stage, regulator, and computer with depth and pressure will usually cost around $850. Even more affordable scuba sets are usually good quality and if rinsed, dried, and stored out of the sun, and can last for hundreds, even thousands of dives.\r\n\r\nTo ensure that your kit is ready to go, even in the most remote places, it\u2019s a good idea to carry an assorted O-ring set, a spare hose or two, and a replacement battery for your dive computer.\r\n\r\nThe mask and fins you usually use for snorkelling should suffice for most recreational diving, but an additional set will bring your total to around $1,000 (US) for a full set of quality gear, or roughly the same cost as 15 dives through a tour company.\r\n\r\nHaving your gear onboard also has the advantage that if you ever foul your chain or anchor, you\u2019ll be able to untangle it yourself and maybe even give the boat\u2019s bottom a quick scrub while you\u2019re at it.\r\n<h2>Diving Kit list:<\/h2>\r\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\"><b><img class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-131396\" src=\"https:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/21\/2021\/04\/YAW261.special_report.screenshot_2021_03_04_at_15_48_13-630x394.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"630\" height=\"394\" \/><\/b><\/span><\/p>\r\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\"><b>BCD (buoyancy compensation device): <\/b><\/span><span class=\"s2\">a backfill BCD with an integrated emergency regulator on the inflater hose will be more compact and eliminate an extra hose. The Oceanic Biolite weighs in at only 2.5kg.<\/span><\/p>\r\n<a href=\"https:\/\/target.georiot.com\/Proxy.ashx?tsid=134985&amp;GR_URL=https%3A%2F%2Famazon.com%2FOceanic-Biolite-Travel-Scuba-Diving%2Fdp%2FB07CCZSTPP%3Ftag%3Dhawk-future-20%26ascsubtag%3Dyachtingworld-gb-3044878781784929300-20\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Buy the Oceanic Biolite from Amazon (US)<\/a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"https:\/\/target.georiot.com\/Proxy.ashx?tsid=134985&amp;GR_URL=https%3A%2F%2Famazon.co.uk%2FOceanic-BioLite-Travel-BCD-Lightweight%2Fdp%2FB07N1Z1NNR%3Ftag%3Dhawk-future-21%26ascsubtag%3Dyachtingworld-gb-1017122748555886200-21\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Buy the Oceanic Biolite from Amazon (UK)<\/a>\r\n<h6>Note: We may earn a commission when you buy through links on our site, at no extra cost to you. This doesn\u2019t affect our editorial independence.<\/h6>\r\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\"><b>Mask: <\/b><\/span><span class=\"s2\">any mask that fits your face will do, but a single lens mask will open your field of view and can make diving seem less claustrophobic.<\/span><\/p>\r\n<p class=\"p3\"><span class=\"s2\"><b><img class=\"alignnone wp-image-131388 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/21\/2021\/04\/YAW261.special_report.screenshot_2021_03_04_at_15_48_55-630x394.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"630\" height=\"394\" \/><\/b><\/span><\/p>\r\n<p class=\"p3\"><span class=\"s2\"><b>Regulator and first stage:<\/b><\/span><\/p>\r\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s2\">The Cressi AC2 is robust and affordable. <\/span><\/p>\r\n<a href=\"https:\/\/target.georiot.com\/Proxy.ashx?tsid=134985&amp;GR_URL=https%3A%2F%2Famazon.co.uk%2FCressi-AC2-XS2-Regulator-Quality%2Fdp%2FB075G2N53G%3Ftag%3Dhawk-future-21%26ascsubtag%3Dyachtingworld-gb-1252477049201573000-21\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Buy the Cressi AC2 from Amazon (UK)<\/a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"https:\/\/target.georiot.com\/Proxy.ashx?tsid=134985&amp;GR_URL=https%3A%2F%2Famazon.com%2FCressi-XS-Compact-AC2-Regulator%2Fdp%2FB00D2P0G2W%2Fref%3Dsr_1_1%3Fdchild%3D1%26keywords%3DCressi%2BAC2%26qid%3D1619627298%26sr%3D8-1%26tag%3Dhawk-future-20%26ascsubtag%3Dyachtingworld-gb-8798622074813188000-20\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Buy the Cressi AC2 from Amazon (US)<\/a>\r\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\"><b><img class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-131398\" src=\"https:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/21\/2021\/04\/YAW261.special_report.screenshot_2021_03_04_at_15_49_21-630x394.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"630\" height=\"394\" \/><\/b><\/span><\/p>\r\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\"><b>D<\/b><\/span><span class=\"s1\"><b>ive computer: <\/b><\/span><span class=\"s2\">depth, tank PSI or BAR, time, and a compass are important features. We recommend Garmin Descent dive watches. <\/span><\/p>\r\n<a href=\"https:\/\/www.anrdoezrs.net\/links\/6361382\/type\/dlg\/sid\/yachtingworld-gb-9814213418017495000\/https:\/\/buy.garmin.com\/en-GB\/GB\/p\/633356\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Buy Garmin Descent dive watch from Garmin<\/a>\r\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\"><b>Fins: <\/b><\/span><span class=\"s2\">also a personal choice, but split fins are preferable.<\/span><\/p>\r\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\"><b>Dive flag: <\/b><\/span><span class=\"s2\">a very important piece of a dive kit that is often overlooked<\/span><\/p>\r\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\"><b>Safety sausage: <\/b><\/span><span class=\"s2\">an inflatable float that will signal your exact position even before you surface.<\/span><\/p>\r\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\"><b>Wetsuit: <\/b><\/span><span class=\"s2\">depending on water temperatures and personal preference, a wetsuit is advisable. A hood, gloves, and booties are also good to have in colder temperatures.<\/span><\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n<hr \/>\r\n\r\n<h2><a href=\"http:\/\/bit.ly\/2JMgfA4\"><img class=\"alignright wp-image-120951 size-medium\" src=\"https:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/21\/2019\/05\/YW_JUNE19_-COVER-1-152x200.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"152\" height=\"200\" \/><\/a>If you enjoyed this\u2026.<\/h2>\r\n<blockquote>\r\n<div class=\"\"><em>Yachting World is the world's leading magazine for bluewater cruisers and offshore sailors. Every month we have inspirational adventures and practical features to help you realise your sailing dreams.<\/em><\/div>\r\n<div><\/div>\r\n<div class=\"\"><em>Build your knowledge with a subscription delivered to your door. See our <a href=\"http:\/\/bit.ly\/2JMgfA4\">latest offers<\/a> and save at least 30% off the cover price.<\/em><\/div><\/blockquote>\r\n\r\n<hr \/>","excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>We sailed to the atoll of Fakarava for one reason: diving! This distant enclave is a sleepy little island that has Polynesian traditions as deep as the sea. Whether you\u2019re a novice to snorkelling or a waterlogged divemaster, Fakarava\u2019s ancient volcano caldera offers some of the most amazing undersea experiences anywhere in the world. The vast biome and unique ecosystem here has earned this atoll recognition as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, hopefully protecting and preserving this reef for decades to come. My wife, Rachel, and I sailed our 37-year-old Tayana 42 Ag\u00e1pe over 15,000 miles down central America, from southern California to Panama, across the Pacific Ocean to the Galapagos and Gambier, and finally out into the famed \u2018dangerous archipelago\u2019. The Tuamotus were bestowed this name long ago by a heartier breed of explorers because of the low-lying islands, strong currents, and unpredictable passes. Navigating by sextant and dead reckoning alone, sailors would often decide to completely avoid these 78 atolls and their fringing reefs. Only in recent decades, with modern charts and GPS, has it become safer to traverse this archipelago. The Tuamotus, once tall volcanic islands jutted from the endless pacific blue, are now just low-lying rings of coral, only a few metres above sea level. Their often jagged coral shorelines ensure any sandy beaches are highly prized. After three months with no grocery stores, our meals on board were getting creative to say the least, and a quick 80-mile overnight sail to Fakarava was filled with dreams of fresh vegetables and a salad sized for a village. We set a route that took us close to the leeward side of several neighbouring atolls. As palm trees are usually the highest points on the islands, this afforded us relatively unobstructed winds and calmer seas. Combined with a warm 22\u00b0C night-time low and a full moon it made for perfect sailing conditions. First light found Ag\u00e1pe and her crew patiently waiting outside the pass. Entering the turquoise water of the lagoon means first navigating through a narrow pass, or break, in the protective barrier reef. This can prove to be a harrowing experience as the tide, wind, and waves all push water into the lagoon, forcing it to exit a small channel. Three to four knots of current is common, and currents can reach eight knots or stronger in high wind and surf conditions, making it very difficult for a boat that only motors at 5 knots to enter the lagoon. Once inside, the challenge of entering was quickly forgotten as we struggled to take in the sheer beauty of this low-lying island. The copra, or coconut farms, which take up most of the island ensure that the scene is one from a tropical postcard. Palm trees overhang the shallow water or reach to the sun, jockeying for position in the skyline. Fakarava is the second-largest atoll in the Tuamotus and a popular stop for cruisers making their way westward to Tahiti. Of the 800 full-time residents, almost all <a href=\"https:\/\/www.yachtingworld.com\/cruising\/diving-from-a-boat-advice-from-the-experts-131355\">&hellip;Continue reading &raquo;<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4388,"featured_media":137791,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[767,139],"tags":[1633,2409],"review_manufacturer":[],"acf":[],"introduction":null,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yachtingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/137777"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yachtingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yachtingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yachtingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4388"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yachtingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=137777"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/www.yachtingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/137777\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":139714,"href":"https:\/\/www.yachtingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/137777\/revisions\/139714"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yachtingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/137791"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.yachtingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=137777"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yachtingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=137777"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yachtingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=137777"},{"taxonomy":"review_manufacturer","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.yachtingworld.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/review_manufacturer?post=137777"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}